Rec and Sports

The variety I grow as aurea-variegata has, like so many favourites, suffered a name change and must now be known as maculata.

I have a high regard for shrubs which colour well in the autumn, and for this reason include Disanthus cercidifolius in my select list. A shrub of medium height, it prefers rather than tolerates a position in semi-shade, and a moisture-retentive but not waterlogged soil.

The leaves turn crimson early in October and look magnificent in association with blue- flowered hydrangeas. Propagation is by means of seed, which is not easy to obtain, or by layers.

The combination of clay soil and late frosts, which habitually visit this area in May, prove intolerable. Eventually I decided on a fresh beginning by growing Elaeagnus commutata (argentea) from seed.

This has proved very successful and the silvered leaves of this deciduous bush are such an asset to the garden that once again I am to embark on an even more ambitious programme. A well-drained strong soil and shelter from east winds are two essential requirements which the majority of gardens can provide.

Avalanche has slender branches which are hung in June with fragrant white flowers. The more exposure the shrub gets the better: a sheltered position encourages early growth which in this garden is often killed by May frost. The deutzia known as Perle Rose has a better habit, and grows 3 to 6 ft. high depending on the richness of the soil. The pale rose flowers are brought forth with unstinted generosity. D. x rosea includes good forms with pink or white flowers; carminea, pink flushed carmine, and grandiflora, white and pink. D. scabra plena gives the gardener Pride of Rochester, a variety with double white flowers, rose purple outside which verge on the ugly to me, yet it enjoys almost universal acclaim. Cuttings can be taken in July, 4 to 5 in. long and firming towards the base which should be inserted into a 3 sand, 1 peat compost, or 4 to 8 in. long as hardwoods in November. Pruning consists of removing old wood in winter, leaving young growths to flower the following summer.

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Potentillas are absolutely indispensable shrubs. Amongst their virtues is the ability to grow practically anywhere in any soil except dense shade or a weeping bog. I cherish the dozen or so specimens and varieties which grow here, and enjoy the flowers which open in succession from May until September. They look a little untidy after leaf fall, but this can be forgiven in a shrub so thoroughly worthwhile.

Cheal’s Weeping is a good small specimen tree for a lawn with deep pink double blossom. Shimidsu Sakura is oriental in the superb fragile picture it makes as the pink buds open to pure white. Tai-haku, with flowers 2 in. across, is a poem of loveliness against a background of pines. Ukon, with copper-tinted leaves and cream-yellow flowers, looks magnificent with scarlet azaleas.

Prunus suhhirtella has a modesty of demeanour in contradiction to the flamboyant aspect presented by the others. The best known is possibly autumnalis, which, whenever the temperature stays above freezing point, opens fragile white flowers.

What can anyone who grows cherries do but wax lyrical about the mounds of blossom which erupt from every branch under the benign May sun. Brief the beauty may be, but the picture remains fresh in the mind long after the last petal falls_ A deep free-draining loam is the best possible medium which can be used.

The flowers resemble those of hawthorn both in scent and shape and the bushes are not a particularly notable feature until the berries begin to ripen. Then they are a truly remarkable sight in autumn sunshine. Of the firethorns, Pyracantha coccinealalandii is deservedly the: most popular. The orange- scarlet berries are large and wax like in texture and the birds devour them with avidity. Pyracanthen crenulata makes. first-class greenery on a north wall, but berries rather sparsely. In full sun it ripens a good crop of fruit which is best in the,form rogersiana.

A hybrid I grow as watered Looks like being a notable acquisition. It is more lax in habit but well furnished in September with bright red berries. Pruning consists of thinning the bush to shape in May, but this should be done with care or the autumn display is ruined. Cuttings taken of current season’s growth in August root in a compost of 3 sand, 1 peat.

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Plants grouped together are infinitely more effective than an equivalent number of plants plants growing indoors will be some way below perfection.

Fortunately, there is an ample range of indoor plants from which to choose, so it is not difficult to create a wide variety of differing effects, and this can often he done by simply rearranging the same plants. Many of the plants will fit into almost any colour scheme, while others require selection and placing with some care.

The plants with harder red colouring, such as 12 crowns, poinsettias and Dracaena terminalis, are possibly the most difficult to incorporate in a display ; my tendency with these is to provide a background of greenery against which the more difficult colours are easier on the eye. Some plants are almost essential when planning a larger display or arrangement. Following a talk on indoor plants I was once taken out of my stride when a questioner asked something that was not included in what I would term the standard questions.

The questioner wanted to know what my ten favourite house plants were. After thinking for a moment I gave him my answer, and it struck me that the plants mentioned were in fact my ten fivourite display plants – the ones without which I would feel rather lost in an exhibition hall or flower show marquee.

It is difficult to lay down definite rules because the plants themselves vary so much. You may have in mind a perfect specimen of a rubber plant glowing with good health while the reader, on the other hand, may be faced with what can equally well be a rubber plant, but it may, in fact, have only a few leaves at the top of an otherwise bare stem.

For bolder displays the monstera must surely find a place, and far and away the most suitable subject for underplanting an imposing monstera plant is the red-centred bromeliad, Neoregelia carolinae tricolor, which is another of my favourite top ten display plants. Another plant that is difficult to better when it comes to filling darker areas under larger plants is the bird’s nest fern, Asplenium units. The leaves, arranged in the form of a shuttlecock, are of the palest green colouring and require little skill to set them off to best effect.

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In the light, airy room that affords a constant temperature throughout the year there is an endless range of plants to choose from which will soften and improve the surroundings.

In the entrance hall draughts can present problems, so some precautions should he taken to protect plants by fitting draught excluders. Occasional opening of the front door is not so harmful provided it is not left open for long periods during cold spells. A cold, cutting draught will quickly prove fatal to the majority of foliage plants. Where the staircase leads off directly from the hall a bamboo or similar framework following the line of the staircase provides an excellent support for climbing plants.

The pots in which the plants are growing can be tucked away out of sight under the staircase where they will cause much less obstruction. Although it is essential that the plant growth should enjoy reasonable light in which to grow, the same does not apply to the pot in which the plant is growing. However, some plantsmen may object and say that concealing the pots gives the overall display an artificial appearance, but this is purely a matter of personal taste.

Between show attendances and letter answering a somewhat unique knowledge of plants has been acquired – much of it useless, but a great deal closely concerned with plants and the problems they present for the average householder. It is hoped in the ensuing pages that the reader will benefit from the worthwhile information and be amused by the more bizarre incidents.

Talking to members of flower arrangement and gardening clubs, and listening to their many questions at the close of proceedings, can also be helpful in building up a knowledge of plants. Particularly so when a member describes how successful he has been with growing Begonia rex, for instance, or stephanotis, and gives an account of how the plant is cared for. In this way you really do learn about success and fliilure, and how to improve your chances of growing bigger and better plants indoors.

Of all the many points that come to light during these discussions it is abundantly clear that plants grown in good light do very much better than those which struggle along in a dark corner. Good light should not be confused with bright sunlight too much of the latter can be damaging; to the majority of plants used fir indoor decoration. To make the most of house plants adequate light is essential, particularly in respect of plants with variegated foliage.

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Small trees with coppery-green foliage are not common but when they display dark red flowers each and every May they become nearly collectors’ pieces. M. x lemoinei has copper foliage and red flowers exhibited on a rounded bush during April and early May.

Self-layered branches will always be found ready for lifting in autumn. M . a. undulata is perhaps lovelier, but at 6 ft. high too tall for ground cover. M. japonica is so much better than bealei and undulata that for the small garden it must be the first choice. The large clusters of pinnate leaves form a nest from which emerge racemes of pale yellow fragrant flowers, in some years during February, in others March.

As a shrub enthusiast there are certain plants I yearn to grow well, and I go to a lot of trouble to achieve these ambitions. Now after six years of endeavour, my 4-ft. high bush of Osmanthus delavayi has rewarded my efforts with a creditable show of white, perfumed flowers.

The dark green leaves are in themselves attractive, especially when the bush is kept well furnished by carefully pruning in May. Ultimate height depends on situation, the biggest plant I know is 8 ft. by 15 ft. Cuttings of semi-mature side shoots are a gardener’s dream of easy rooting taken in July.

The choice offered in the best catalogues is quite bewildering, but only those of outstanding merit should be considered for the smaller garden. Malusfloribunda has an insidious beauty which took three full seasons to impress me. Now when the umbrella-shaped tree is covered during May with fragrant shell-pink flowers, my homage is given unstintingly espdially when the pink is reflected in the white of Pheasant’s Eye Narcissus underneath.

Tree Peonies are not usually considered easy plants, but I have nothing but the highest regard for the species. The young breaking leaves are delightfully tinted pink, yellow or bronze, while the flowers though small compared with the hybrids make up for lack of size by the quantity in which they are displayed.

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For two years I had a plant of Motherwort, Leonurus cardiaca, labelled Perovskia atriplicifolia and my confusion on discovering the mistake will stop me committing any further careless follies of similar magnitude. The beauty of the grey foliage, near white sterns, and subsequent lavender-blue flowers depends very much on the associate planting. Grown at the edge of a flagged path to intermingle with the purple-leaved Cotinus coggygria, the shrub achieves a certain distinction. A well-drained soil and position in full sun are two further essentials for success. Cuttings taken in June or July will root in a sun frame.

Penstemon heterophyllus Blue Gem is more herbaceous than shrubby with me, but the erect branching system with blue tubular flowers throughout late summer is singularly attractive. P. laetus roezlii is more spreading in growth, up to 10 in. high with ruby-red flowers. P. menziesii, evergreen through all but the coldest winter, is a neat shrublet with tubular purple flowers in late May – June.

P. lutea is best represented in the form ludlowii which was introduced from Tibet by Kingdon Ward, and has golden saucer-shaped flowers measuring 3 in. across. A truly magnificent shrub. The Moutan Peony. correctly listed as P. suffruticosa, is available in a wide range of colours, but loveliest of all are the China pink forms.

As with all the others shelter should be given from the east, so that the young growths, if nipped by a late frost, can thaw out before the sun reaches them. Propagation other than seed is by layering of side branches in spring.

Most are single sexed, so a male should be planted in a group of females to ensure a healthy crop of berries. Pernettya mucronata will soon form a dense bush, a 5-ft. intricate tangle of suckering stems with neat evergreen leaves. White flowers in May turn to masses of berries, which depending on the variety, range in colour from dark red to purple and white. P. mucronata alba, in the selected forms, has splendid white fruits. Bell’s Seedling, excellent in association with heathers, has extra large red berries.

Photinia villosa develops an arching, umbrella habit, and makes a useful small specimen tree up to about 15 ft. high. The hawthorn-like flowers are relatively insignificant, but the autumn colour equals that of any other deciduous shrub in the garden. It shares with the quince a proneness to the disease coral spot, and needs painstaking pruning to restore it to good health.

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Corylopsis pauctflora has the precocious habit of flowering in March – April. Fortunately we are often granted a few mild, sun-blessed days in which to appreciate the delicate fragrance of the drooping racemes of yellow flowers. Incidently, they make worthy pot plants but rarely exceed 36 in. even outside.

CorylopSis spicata is taller and with me somewhat hardier than C. paucora. In appearance it is very like a hamamelis or hazel, the 5-in. spikes of yellow flowers are deliciously scented, opening mid-April. I planted one specimen near a flight of well-used steps and for 5 years it has given pleasure to all who pass by when it is in bloom.

Pruning is only required if the twigs are nipped by frost, otherwise leave well alone. To increase my collection I find layering the most fruitful method, cutting a low branch back hard, then pegging down the young shoots which break from the stump.

The form known as rubra is only a travesty of red. Could the blush be heightened by a degree then its charm might rival that of the type plant.

For a long time I gave the accolade to a species labelled wardii because it was planted in the most efficacious position for display of the silver-grey leaves and orange berries. Then I was given another C. wardii from an unimpeachable source, and now I find the original plant is C. franchetii sternianus. Those who buy a plant should place it so that the rising sun shines full upon rime- frosted leaves.

Without a doubt, C. horizontalis is the most widely used member of the genus. From traffic islands in the middle of the city to farmhouse walls in the countryside, it exhibits the characteristic pattern of branches in autumn, scarlet of leaf, orange of berry, always a model of decorous beauty. Planted against a wall, with a little training, it builds tier upon tier of branches to soften the aridity of the masonry. Cuttings, self-layered branches, or seeds make propagation almost child’s play.

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Though a member of the ericaceae, this genus shows a benign tolerance of alkaline soils. One of the finest specimens of the Strawberry Tree, Arbutu.v unedo, I have ever seen grows in a lime soil, full in the path of a wind from the sea.

Give the plant reasonable growing conditions with a proper mixture of male and female varieties, so that in due season the bushes are festooned with scarlet berries, and the real quality of the shrub is obvious. A. japonica variegata is the form most commonly seen struggling to survive in some city plot: It is a green-leaved form which looks extremely becoming in full berry but nana rotundifolia is my favourite with a neat habit and scarlet berries. Cuttings taken in August – September root so easily I have never tried sowing seeds, which is an alternative method of propagation.

Arundinaria viridistriata with yellow and green leaves is a most unpredictable species. In the garden near Clitheroe, Lancashire, which provided my plants they grew in open woodland and the canes were 3 ft. high. Each year they were scythed in swathes to encourage young growth which produces the best foliage. I suspect that the garden’s need of bonfire ash was also a reason.

The canes of nigra horyana are mottled green and black and the shadow patterns cast by the rather dense foliage complete the jungle effect. My first choice, however, would be nigra henonis. Many gardens would look ill furnished in places were it not for the large selection of berberis available. Most of the really desirable species will succeed in a wide range of soils, growing in sun or partial shade.

Greatly encouraged, I have now added colchicum bulbs to complete the picture in 1 cool purple and white. My specimen spreads by self-layering, but very restrainedly, and shows no particular preference to soil or even degree of exposure. However, I have found the autumn colour is better in part shade.

The canes fade to a straw yellow and the foliage is dark green and luxuriant. Like A. nitida, this is a splendid variety for planting as a lawn specimen.

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Ceanothus includes species with popular names redolent of romance – Californian Lilac, Jersey Tea, and Squaw Carpet. I find it a matter of great regret that not even with the deciduous species can I sit back and enjoy that rare delight of a shrub covered in blue flowers for no sooner do the ceanothus in my garden reach full size than along comes a really severe late frost to turn fresh green to black ruin.

This is just one of the penalties paid for a glorious view of the Pennines in my over-exposed garden. Both the evergreen and deciduous species need a hot sun-baked position and a light free- draining soil to really flourish, so on a clay soil put them against the south or west wall of the house or any other sheltered location with the roots in a carefully prepared compost.

The golden heather of New Zealand, Cassinia jidvida, though mediocre in flower makes a very good looking foliage shrub. I planted five nearly fifteen years ago and so far only one has died and the tallest is now 6 ft.

Carpinus betulus, the common hornbeam, languishes in the shadow of the beech, but as acquaintance ripens it becomes a tree of considerable character. Some trees one can pass every day and they are still no more than just a piece of wood with branches.

However, few people can dismiss a hornbeam in so casual a fashion. As a hedging plant beech is acknowledged as the superior, for only when clipping is done in July and August will the hornbeam retain its leaves for the winter.

The tallest tree I know is 50 ft. high; an impressive sight in winter with the fluted trunk a picture of rugged strength. For those with limited space the variety fastigiata makes a delightful pyramidal small tree.

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Any shrub border would be incomplete unless it included one member of this family of evergreens. The greatest problem I have to contend with is which of the varieties to omit. Any soil with even a tentative protestation to fertility will support escallonia. On this day, with suitable encouragement, they are a valuable addition to the shades of summer and early autumn. In Cornwall and other coastal areas they make grand flowering hedges which are trimmed as required to keep them within bounds but with a view to gaining the maximum amount of flower. Cuttings taken in July – August root readily.

Erica tetralix, the indigenous Cross-leaved Heath, is not everyone’s plant. The foliage is pleasant and the flowers are carried in clustered heads. It enjoys a damper soil than most heathers. Among its varieties are alba mollis, a white form : Con Underwood, flowers deep crimson in July – October: and Pink Glow with grey foliage.

Erica vagans, the Cornish Heath, makes a dwarf shrublet which is in colour during the period July – October. Of the varieties available kevernensis is rose pink; Lyonesse, a splendid white flower with protruding brown anthers: and Mrs D. F. Maxwell, a favourite of mine. with deep cerise blooms.

Fugus sylvaticalastigiata , the Dawyck Beech, is very erect in habit and occupies little space. To me, however, the branches are so ill placed as to appear haphazardly stuck on with glue.

All ericas, Eucryphias are better grown in a neutral to acid soil which is moist yet well drained. In August every shoot is burdened down with white flowers like that of the dog rose, but with the conspicuous boss of stamens.

The laggard blooms of September fall as the foliage flames into autumn gold and scarlet. The species glutinosa, an erect rather military shrub, and the hybrid nymansensis would be my choice from a first rate list of varieties.

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